Wis. remains tops in cheese contest with Calif.

The Golden State and its cows gained quickly on Wisconsin in the past decade, but cheese plants in California are maxing out, while efforts to boost production in Wisconsin are paying off, said Dick Groves, longtime owner of the Madison-based trade publication, Cheese Reporter.

Groves helped spark the friendly competition between the states 10 years ago with an editorial predicting California would overtake Wisconsin in cheese production by 2005. He later amended it to 2010 and then, last month, to "not anytime soon."

New numbers showing a growing gap between Wisconsin and California prompted Groves to abandon his earlier prediction.

"Cheese production in the two states moved in opposite directions -Wisconsin's went up and California's went down," he said.

About half of the 9.7 billion pounds of cheese made in the U.S. comes from the two states, according to the National Agricultural Statistics Service. Production has grown much more rapidly in California in the past decade as large plants opened there year after year.

Wisconsin's lead in annual production shrank to about 164 million pounds in 2007, according to NASS. Last July, California came within less than 6 million pounds of Wisconsin in monthly production.

But then the gap started growing again, reaching 30 million pounds in March.

The quick shift is partly due to two plants closing in California in 2007, while two opened in Wisconsin this year, Groves said.

Dairy Farmers of America closed an American cheese plant in Corona, Calif., saying it wasn't profitable, and Lactalis USA Inc. closed a specialty cheese plant in Turlock, Calif. Lactalis officials declined through a spokeswoman to discuss that plant closing.