Imperial holdover: Gurkhas flock to British army

In an era when the world's armies are hard pressed to fill their ranks, the Gurkhas are a recruiter's dream: Last year 17,349 applied to join the British military, and after grueling physical, medical and mental tests 230 were accepted -just one in 75.

These warriors could be regarded as Britain's mercenaries: good money and adventure are major attractions. But ask almost any Gurkha soldier, and he is also likely to talk of history and upholding a tradition of being among the world's finest infantrymen.

This reputation was first acquired in the 19th century, after the British thought it wiser to recruit rather than fight foes who bloodied them badly when they moved northward out of colonial India into Nepal.

From those days, through the two world wars, to today's Afghanistan, the spine-chilling cry of "Ayo Gurkhali!" -"The Gurkhas are coming!" -has sent enemies quaking. Some have even surrendered rather than face a relentless charge by the rugged soldiers wielding their trademark kukri knives.

"Afghanistan was a test for the modern Gurkha, to show our forefathers that we are still meeting the standards they set. It was our chance to show that we are continuing the tradition. So far, so good," said Sgt. Belbahadur Gurung, a third-generation British Army Gurkha back home after a widely lauded combat tour.

Leaning against his new motorcycle and sporting designer sunglasses, the handsome 31-year-old platoon sergeant cut a dashing figure as did comrades from the 1st Battalion Royal Gurkha Rifles, savoring leave with family, friends and envious hopefuls in this western Nepal city.

In recent years, the long-acquiescent Gurkhas have agitated for higher pensions and the right to live in Britain after retirement, even handing in some medals in protest.

They have had some success, and the desire of young men to join their 3,500 compatriots now serving Queen Elizabeth II is on display daily at Pokhara's sports stadium, as the sun's first rays softly brush the snows of the towering Annapurna range.

Although this year's recruits will not be selected until December, already hundreds of aspirants reel off endless laps, push-ups, sit-ups and even yoga positions at one of the dozen private "academies" that have sprung up to prepare the applicants.