Designers play it safe as economy sours

"I tend to just gravitate toward more classic lines," she told The AP. "It's always hard for me to go too rock 'n roll."

MIU MIU

Guests arriving at the Miu Miu show in an 18th century style mansion were greeted with foie gras and pink champagne, but the clothes read like a manifesto against conspicuous consumption.

Models with sleek hairdos and crimson lips marched robotically in burlap dresses pocked with holes. Italian designer Miuccia Prada also put fine fabrics through the wringer, ripping tears into a scarlet silk pleated cocktail dress that was layered with a short pleated apron.

References to ancient civilizations ran through the collection, with clashing tops and skirts that featured photo prints of mosaics and classical art. Perhaps the message was that fashion fades, culture remains.

LANVIN

Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz knows his customer well--he regularly checks sell-through figures to find out what works on the shop floor.

His spring-summer collection combined clean lines with opulent volume in gowns made from vibrant silks that looked like they had just been thrown on. Fabric flounced over one shoulder or draped above the hip in deep swirls.

Pattern made an appearance in a sky blue leopard print silk dress with a matching clutch. Standouts included a blush pink slim satin trench worn with a tone-on-tone statement necklace.

"Thank you!" said a beaming Jim Gold, president and CEO of New York luxury department store Bergdorf Goodman, as he congratulated Elbaz backstage.