Geneva 2018 Roundup: F.P. Journe, Greubel Forsey And Christophe Claret

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As the shows continue, we check in with some of the auteur-driven brands releasing new products this week…

F.P. Journe

Widely considered a watchmaking auteur for the way in which he leans on the boundaries of watchmaking art, the eponymous founder of F.P. Journe has just expanded the brand’s lineSport collection with the Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante. The model captures the brand’s inimitable blend of modernity and reverence for traditional complication within a case that measures 44mm in diameter and 12mm in thickness. A generous power reserve of 80 hours allows the wearer to use the rattrapante chronograph even after two days running. Crafted in blackened titanium, red gold or platinum, the cases of each model are fitted with matching bracelets.

Greubel Forsey

Différentiel d’Égalité

Available in a limited edition of 33 pieces, Greubel Forsey’s Différentiel d’Égalité contains what Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey refer to as their “5 th Fundamental invention”; its eponymous mechanism ensures a constant transfer of energy from the mainspring barrel to the regulating organ, and maintains a constant balance amplitude over all 60 days of the power reserve.

In addition, this is the first Greubel Forsey timepiece to feature deadbeat seconds, a capacity that aids in telling time precisely. Large openings on the dial side and the caseback show off the innovative movement inside this white-gold case.

Double Balancier

Encased in 5N red gold, and graced with a black-gold and enamel dial, this latest edition of the Double Balancier is as dramatic on the outside as it is on the inside. In fact, the distinction between the two blurs a bit, as just over half the dial is cut away to reveal the piece’s intricate workings within.

The two inclined regulating organs were introduced on the original Double Balancier model as superposed elements, but here each one claims its own territory.

GMT Earth

The GMT Earth is designed around the concept of three-dimensionality, including—but not limited to—the ability to regard our Earth in 360º vision, from the North Pole on the dial side to the South Pole through the caseback.

A sapphire crystal aperture on the side of the case provides an additional perspective, unusual only in that it is the view to which we are most accustomed.

Constructed on multiple visible levels, the workings of the timepiece, from the time display to the red-handed GMT indication to the power reserve display at 3 o’clock, invite the wearer on a journey into the depths of haute horology…

Christophe Claret

Maestro Mamba

The ingenious Christophe Claret adds more than a dash of danger to its Maestro line, infusing it with a fangful of venom. Inspired by the snakeskin of its strap, Christophe Claret entwined a miniature, hand-engraved mambo around the workings of the movement, which appears ready to strike at any moment. Its bright green scales reflect the tsavorites set on the crown and dial, fitting, given the common geographical origin of the stone and the serpent, in southeast Africa. An ingenious “MEMO” function on this watch allows the wearer to display a green tsavorite at 6 o’clock as a reminder of a task, changing to a diamond when the task is completed, and reverting to a neutral display overnight.