As the snow began to turn into slush Friday after winter storm Nemo hit the city, Rag & Bone designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright debuted at New York Fashion Week a Fall 2013 collection drawn from various uniforms within aviation and the military.
"We started with flight, aviation, Pan Am uniforms," Wainwright told Women's Wear Daily backstage before the show of the designer duo's inspiration. "We wanted to start with something very clean, and then it quickly evolved from the minimal to much more modern military aviation."
With delicate, almost unintentional layering, Rag & Bone created new pieces for women that pair tailored workwear with downtown separates. Silhouettes were looser in fit, paired with intense detailing while keeping the relaxed minimalistic vibe.
Color accents and quilted details, as in the swingy miniskirts, were under long leather and tweed coats. Outerwear was rounded out with bomber jackets (one of which was in a shocking orange), long menswear-inspired coats and little jackets nearly resembling the iconic Chanel jacket.
For accessories, Rag & Bone introduced two concepts that fashionistas are sure to incorporate in coming seasons: a loafer bootie in black, blue, muted mustard yellow and dark brown as well as glimpses of the control top panty hose on models' upper thighs.
Most impressive was the designers' use of color, beginning the show with typical fall staples of black and gray before moving into distressed army green, deep purples and blues mixed with complementary orange.
“My favorite was the pops of orange: the color was done so well,” Drew Barrymore told The New York Times. “And the real genius is that you can wear everything. It’s not like those fashion shows where you wonder, ‘How can I wear that in my real life without looking like Phyllis Diller?’ ”
And for the designers, that balance of being wearable along with groundbreaking is all a delicate act.
“Some designers can do anything in the name of artistic license,” Neville said backstage. “We try to keep it more accessible, something that’s relevant to the Rag & Bone girl, while still being interesting of course.”